My most favorite stitch is the corner to corner (C2C) stitch. I have been working with this stitch for a few years now and always wondered if there were other ways I can use the stitch…and this year I’ve finally figured out a way! I’m super excited to show you. This method has opened up so many new possibilities. It has inspired me to come up with so many new patterns as well.

This tutorial will show you a sample piece of how the method is used. When you learn the technique you can use them to make the different shapes and patterns. The combinations of the the techniques shown in the tutorial will help you make your free-form c2c. The biggest game changer being the “ADD ON” blocks…which will help you extend your rows further than the normal c2c stitch.

The beginning of this tutorial shows you the basic c2c stitch, and continues on to the free-form c2c method. I have modified how I do the c2c stitch to have a smaller hole and have the stitches closer together.

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The graph for the free-form c2c heart is free. Click Download for the free PDF file below.

You can also purchase the written line by line pattern. (CLICK HERE) The written pattern tells you the count of each block, increase, decrease, ADD on, and other information in detail per line.

Notes:

• The C2C stitch is a cluster of stitches that consist of ch-2+3 dc, in this tutorial I also call them (blocks)…where each cluster counts as one color block on the graph.
• When changing colors or dropping colors, keep all tails on one side.

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate-Advanced

This free-form c2c crochet method is recommended for advanced-intermediate. It is best if you have the knowledge and understanding of how a normal c2c stitch works up. You will also need to know how to do a foundationless double crochet.

Materials:

• Free Heart C2C Graph pdf or PAID written pattern
• Crochet Hook: Rainbow Hook G/4.50mm or Clover Amour 4.50mm
• Yarn: Worsted Weight Acrylic
  (Sample: I Love This Yarn from Hobby Lobby; Pink and Turquoise)
  Other yarn brands recommended: Stylecraft Special DK,
• Scissors
• Darning Needle or Clover Gold Bent Darning Needles
• Stitch Marker

Measurements:

Approximately 12.5″x14.5″

Gauge:

3×3 blocks= 2″x2″
Gauge is not important unless you are trying to meet a specific measurement for your project.

Abbreviations:

dc-double crochet
ch/s-chain/chains
sl st-slip stitch
st/sts-stitch/stitches
sp-space
yo-yarn over

How to Crochet C2C

With Turquoise, start with a slip knot, ch 5. (PIC A1)

Row 1: Dc in second ch from hook, dc in the last 2 chs. (PIC A2)

C2C INCREASE

Row 2 is also how you increase at the beginning of each row. In my patterns, these increase rows are started. This is the step you will need to do for the beginning of these rows.

Row 2: Ch 5. Dc in third ch from hook, dc in the last 2 chs. (PIC A3)

This is how your finished increase block will look. (PIC A4)

Flip the first square up. Locate the ch-2 sp of the first block. (PIC A5)

Insert hook into this ch-2 space, and sl-st. (PIC A6/A7)

Ch 2. Continue the c2c block by making 3 more dc into the ch-2 sp. (PIC A8)

This is how your finished row should look like. (PIC A9)

Repeat steps from Row 2. (PIC A10-A16)

C2C ADDING NEW COLOR

This is how I add new colors. This step is also similar to how I switch colors. When adding new colors or changing colors, make sure that your tails or you drop the colors on the same side. This helps give a cleaner look to your piece.

ADDING COLOR AT THE BEGINNING: You can start a new square with a new color yarn when at the beginning of the row by attaching new yarn like you normally would. And continue with the c2c stitch method.

Here is how you add new color within the row. When you finish a block, you will add the new yarn before you slip stitch to the next block. (PIC B1)

Make a slip knot with the new color yarn. I like mine snug on my hook. (PIC B2)

Slip stitch new color into old color yarn. (PIC B3)

Make sure you pull the old yarn tail tight. I like to keep the loop above the knot of the new color. (PIC B4)

Now you can sl st into the ch-2 sp for the next block… (PIC B5)

Ch2, dc 3 in the same ch-2 sp. These steps help hide the color change and gives it a cleaner look. (PIC B 6)

This is how your color change should look. (PIC B7)

C2C COLOR CHANGE (version 1)

This is how I switch back and forth with colors for yarn that is already attached. Sometimes the yarn needs to be moved upward and sometimes it is moved sideways. When moved upwards, the yarn blends in the the block. When moved sideways, you will crochet over the yarn tail.

Your yarn will come across the block like this once you bring it over. (PIC C1)

Yo with turquoise. (PIC C2)

Sl st into pink loop. (PIC C3)

Be sure to tighten the pink yarn before continuing to work with the turquoise. (PIC C4)

Now you need to sl st into ch-2 sp making sure you crochet over the turquoise yarn, ch 2, dc 3 in the same ch-2 sp. (PIC C5-C7)

C2C COLOR CHANGE (version 2/jumping)

Sometimes you need to bring the yarn up. This next step will show you this method. This step will also show you how to bring the color up a few squares, I call this “jumping”. I only recommend jumping two squares max. If you need to jump more, you will need to try the next method.

I will show you how I jump the pink yarn. Bring the pink yarn up. (PIC D1)

I like to trace the sides of the blocks to get an idea of how long I need the yarn to be before I crochet over it. With the turquoise, sl st into the top of the ch-2 sp, ch 2, dc 3. Make sure you crochet over the pink yarn. (PIC D2)

This is how your block will look with the yarn running up the side of it. This is why I only recommend two blocks max because you don’t want that yarn to be too loose. (PIC D3)

Now we’re switching to the pink yarn. This step is slightly different because of how the yarn is brought up. The pink yarn needs to be secured. (PIC D4)

Insert hook into ch-2 sp, sl st pink into ch-2 sp and turquoise loop. Make sure you pull the turquoise yarn to tighten and secure the loop/color change. Finish the block, ch 2, dc 3. (PIC D5-D7)

C2C COLOR CHANGE (version 3-long jump)

I continued and finished off the last row with pink. I started the next row with pink, and started with one pink block. Lets say you needed to bring the turquoise yarn across more than two blocks. I recommend reattaching this color. But instead of cutting the color, keep in attached, you will cut it later when you have to tuck the strings in. Make the yarn tail 8-12 inches long. And just “reattach” the turquoise by making a new slip knot and attaching that for the new block. (PIC E1-E4)

To save yarn, the photo doesn’t actually show a far long jump, just that I used the method. The turquoise long loops saves a tiny bit of time from cutting then reattaching again…but instead using the yarn continuously.

SLIP STITCH INTO SQUARE

At the end of some rows, you will need to slip stitch into the last block. I recommend slip stitching into the the top of the last double crochet of the block. It gives it a cleaner look. (PIC F1)

INCREASING AFTER ATTACHING TO SQUARE

Sometimes you increase after attaching to a square. This is how it will look when you start the new row. (PIC G1)

C2C DECREASE

When you decrease, you will not make a new square. You will either finish the very last square for the row or attach to the a square at the end of the row. Either way, you will end up doing this method to decrease.

In this photo, you are ending a row by slip stitching to a square. (PIC H1)

You will then turn your work. (PIC H2)

Then slip stitch along the tops of the dc stitches. (PIC H3/PIC H4)

Ch 2 to start the next square. This is how it will look when you start a new row with a decrease. (PIC H5)

C2C ADD ON BLOCKS

This is the method that takes your C2C to another level! I call it the “add on” block. On the written pattern it states to “ADD ON (number of blocks). It consists of foundationless double crochets! This is the secret to the free-form C2C.

Ch 3, yo, insert hook into the third chain from hook. (PIC I1/I2)

Be sure to pick up two loops on the chain

yo pull through only the two loops of the chain. Yo, pull through one loop. This makes the bottom part of the double crochet which is usually a (ch/part of the double crochet you are starting). (PIC I2)

Now you will finish the dc….yo, pull through two loops (PIC I3)

yo pull through two loops. (PIC I5)

Repeat, insert hook into bottom ch, picking up two loops in the chain, yo pull through the two loops from chain only, (PIC 16)

yo, pull through two loops, yo, pull through two loops. (PIC I7)

Repeat one last time, insert hook into bottom ch, picking up two loops, yo pull through the two loops chain only, (PIC I8)

yo, pull through two loops, (PIC I9)

yo, pull through two loops. (PIC I10)

This is how your final ADD on square will look like. You will have three foundationless double crochets, and ch-3. (PIC I11)

This is how it will look when it’s in the proper position. At first it looks funky, but when you start working the next couple rows, it will look just like the others.

Continue to work the next row. Some rows will be an increase block (starting with ch-5) and some will be a decrease block (starting by slip stitching across the tops of three double crochets).

C2C SPECIAL ADD ON BLOCKS

For this block, it is like the regular “ADD ON” except at the beginning you will make part of the block and slip stitch it into the previous row, then finish the block. This Special ADD ON block is used to make the dropped blocks from previous rows. This step is necessary to make your piece a continuous piece c2c piece. It also is another important block to do the c2c form.

1. Make add on block and stop at second foundationless double crochet.

2. Start the last foundationless double crochet. (Yo, insert hook into bottom ch, yo, pull through ch only)…

3. Yo, pull through one loop.

4. Insert hook into first ch on block from previous row (last double crochet of the block). OR in the space between the blocks. Either one works, it all depends on your preference.

5. Yo, pull through ch of on block from previous row…

6. AND pull through one loop only.

7. Yo, pull through one loop.

8. Finish the foundationless double crochet. Yo, pull through two loops…

9. Yo, pull through two loops.

10. Turn and slip stitch on the tops of the double crochets. This is now the last block you needed for the previous row (P5). Which is the SPECIAL ADD ON block.

11. Make the next block. This block is finishing off the current row. Depending on the pattern, you will either do an INC block, DEC block to start the next row. OR you can even do an ADD ON block/s for the current row.

The ADD ON block and SPECIAL ADD ON BLOCK is what will allow you to freely add more blocks and do the FREE-FORM C2C Technique!

You are now ready to make your Free-Form C2C Heart!

Here are some examples of what you can do with this technique!

Tags: c2c, free form c2c, heart